The chart on this page is a list of all the measurement amounts for places within the drafting instructions that say ‘see chart’. It is divided so that you can find the right measurement for your size doll that you may currently be working with and use the correct numbers for the step you are on. Most are for all the different types of dolls but one or two are for specifically just lady dolls or just babies and say so in the doll
column. The chart is for just the drafts of the basic blocks – bodice, sleeve, skirt, and pants for the lady, child, baby and man sections in section I. Separate charts will be in later sections for other measurements as needed.
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart.
Sleeve Cap Bottom Marks
Sleeve Cap Top Marks
1) Sleeve length-Otherwise referred to as center
2) Cap height-1/3 of sleeve length marked
and squared out from the top, 1/2 of the upper arm measurement
3) Wrist or finger span-Mark
out 1/2 of the wrist or finger span (whichever is larger) to either
side of center
4) Sleeve sides-Connect cap
height to wrist level, forming the sides of the sleeve.
5) Sleeve cap bottom marks- 1/8 of upper arm measurement
marked from the outside in and up according to Miniature Draft Chart for your size doll
6) Sleeve cap top-Square out to either
7) Sleeve cap top marks – Using the same
1/8 of upper arm from the bottom marks, mark from the center out
and down according to the Miniature Draft Chartfor your size doll.
8 ) Sleeve cap mid marks- Measure diagonally
from the tips of the small marks and divide in half. Mark.
9) Sleeve cap curve- Form sleeve cap by using your French curve to connect the side to the bottom mark tip, then to the mid point, up to the top and down the other side.
Measurements Needed Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
****Armhole circumference- measure your finished bodice
pattern’s armhole from shoulder tip to shoulder tip
= light gathers
= medium gathers
= very gathered
Only does puff sleeves that are gathered at the top and then pulled in by way of elastic at the wrist
*Determine how full you want the sleeve (see chart)
*Measure from shoulder tip around elbow to wrist this will be your sleeve length
*Measure your armhole of your basic block
*Multiply the armhole circumference by desired fullness (see chart) draw first line as the sleeve length
*Label sleeve length
*Square out to one side only the distance of the armhole circumference from the top and the bottom
*Now draw the other sleeve length line
*Your result will be a rectangle that is your desired fullness wide by your dolls arm length long. From here you can add seam allowance to the top and bottom length and gather to fit.
*This sleeve draft ONLY makes a puff long or short sleeve.
This tutorial was originally created in 2000-2001 and tested on my daughter at about a year old (she’s 13 now). I have also used this tutorial to draft for a doll as small as 1/2″ tall of course using magnifying glasses and a very sharp pencil! This is a preview of the techniques used in Pattern Making for Dolls and Pattern Drafting For Miniatures which were originally sold as hard copy books, moved to CD and finally are now available only in PDF as an instant download.
Included in this tutorial series are all the items that will be needed for all the pattern drafts and even some of the items that will be needed for the stylization in following sections of the full book. Please feel free to draft patterns and critique anything you find that doesn’t work quite right for you. Please also remember the full book covers ladies clothing and babies clothing too along with stylization and construction tips and techniques. If you pass this on to anyone else please remember to give me credit and point them to my website or contact information. Feel free to contact me with any questions you have regarding my technique.
At some point in the future, I will be expanding this series of books to include Computerized Drafting and a book on Advanced Stylizations for Dolls and Miniatures. Keep an eye on the site and the blogs for announcements!
Why are they useful? Specification sheets are very useful to keep track of design details. This is including but not limited to what doll, fabrics, item numbers for those of us in a business or that have a huge doll collection. Most important cost of a project not to mention a copy of the actual design, front and back view with notes and swatches. You can also list where you bought a fabric or what else it might have been used for. Care instructions and anything else you think might be important for future reference.
A specification sheet would be kept with the measuring chart for the doll that the design goes with. If it goes with multiple dolls then the measurement chart for each doll and a copy of the specification sheet should be with each. Later you can also add copies of the patterns in Ziplock bags or file folders and any construction information you need too. It is best to have some form of file folder system for this information if you think you may have a large collection of doll patterns as they are very easily lost!
Permission given by author to photocopy this page.
More information included in the full books! The terms of usage for my tutorial.
Please leave all copyright information in place and do not sell this Pattern Drafting Crash Course. If you want to link to it please go ahead but also let me know so I may link back. Any and all patterns you make using this information are yours and you may sell them just not my “How To Do It”. Please if you do sell the patterns made from this or any of my books, place a small note somewhere that you used my Pattern Drafting Crash Course or my books Pattern Making for Dolls and Pattern Drafting For Miniatures and list my URL or e-mail. This is a very small thing to do for me and otherwise I give the Pattern Drafting Crash Course freely with no expectations that you will buy the books or anything from me. Please feel free to drop me a line telling me what you used the Pattern Drafting Crash Course for or if you used it to make a pattern and sold it. I like to hear about your success!
15) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect
16) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
17) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Inseam measurement Outseam (side seam) -From
Crotch level measure down Outseam measurement. The
distance between the lines at the bottom should be
no smaller than the Around Foot measurement.
18) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Outseam (side seam) -measure over around
foot measurement and mark connect mark to crotch level
Below is the supply list you will need to draft patterns for small or miniature children dolls. In future posts I will also try to list places to find some of the more unique items such as miniature French Curves suitable for drafting in the smaller scales.
1/8 or 1/4″ Ribbon -used to mark where the bust waist and hips land so that measurements are accurate. To help measure hard to get into places on small dolls. You can lay the ribbon on the doll and then use a pen dot to mark the desired amount and then measure the end to the dot.
A plastic coated twist tie works very well for very tiny dolls as you can bend the wire to the exact amount you need and then use a ruler to do the measuring
Eraser– pink pearl or kneaded gum
French Curve, tape dispenser, or sets of “doll size” French curves
Glue stick helps hold tiny pieces to cardstock for final blocks
Light Table or A Box with a Light Inside and Clear Glass or Plastic Over the Top or A Child’s Light Table – used for tracing patterns easier
Magnifying glass Lets you see small things easier
Manila Envelopes, Thin Cardboard, Card Stock Or Junk Mail Post Cards Or Thin Cardboard Boxes- for creating permanent blocks
Measuring Tape – a normal sized human one works well. Alternately the retractable purse size measuring tape found at Wal-Mart works very well too.
Muslin– relatively inexpensive way to do test fits and be able to sew the pieces together along with marking on the pieces any changes*Paper- light weight for first drafts of the pattern
Paper Towel, muslin, used dryer sheets- inexpensive way to test patterns*Pencil- mechanical pencil or a no. 2 normal pencil with a sharp point
Ruler – an accurate one marked in 1/16ths and also centimeters (metal is best) There are clear rulers that are marked in 1/10ths that are very useful as well
Scissors – fine tip sewing scissors some for paper and another pair for fabric
Scotch Tape– taping parts of a pattern in place while adjusting or stylizing
Small Rotary Cutter With A Sharp Blade– to ease cutting out pieces from fabric optional The 18mm size is perfect for cutting out even 1″ scale pieces accurately
Small Rotary Mat– must be used if you use a rotary cutter optional
Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie used for giving a very fine line that is more visible than pencil to a final pattern
Pattern Drafting Crash Course-Explanation Of Measurements & Diagrams Shown on a Lady
Now we get into the actual activity in preparation for drafting a pattern. This explains how to make the measurements correctly from yesterday’s chart.
Take ribbon and pass it around your doll’s waist, bust or chest, neck and hips. Fasten ends together. Choose to use either the top or the bottom of each piece of ribbon as a guide for where you are starting or stopping a measurement. You may also want to mark in pencil or pen the center front and back for reference too. This section of the book deals specifically with measuring different types of dolls and all of the explanations are included in one place.
1) Full Height Head to toe height with or without wig2) Bust /Chest Around the fullest part of the chest
3) Waist Around waist
4) Hip Measure widest area parallel with the floor
5) Center Front /Back Length Center neck to waist nape of neck to waist for back6)Full Length Waist to shoulder at neck over bust (determines shoulder seam) waist to neck over shoulder blade7) Across Shoulder From shoulder tip to shoulder tip on front and across the back at the fullest point. ONLY RECORD 1/2 of measurement8) Side Seam Length Bottom of armhole (about chest high) to the waist
9) Shoulder Length Shoulder tip to neck10) Shoulder Slope Center of waist to shoulder tip
over bust diagonally same on back. Should be almost as long as full length within about 1/4″
11) Bust Span (lady only) from apex to apex of the
bust (where a nipple might be)
12)Bust Depth (lady only) Measure from tip of bust (apex or Measure from tip of bust (apex or nipple) to waist straight down
13) Side Seam To Floor Side at waist to floor14) Back Waist To Floor Center back to floor
15) Crotch Depth Depth from waist to crotch level (if doll does not have an official crotch approximate the right area for it.)
16) Hip Depth center front to hip line
17) Side Hip Depth side waist to hip on side of doll (over the curve of the hip
18) Finger Span Around the fingers of both hands
to determine which is bigger Finger Span or Wrist19) Wrist Around the wrist20) Around Foot Around the circumference of the foot at sole level21) Upper Arm Around where the porcelain or vinyl meets the cloth of the rest of the body
22) Sleeve Length From shoulder tip to wrist23) Armhole Depth On back from center at the neck to chest ribbon
24)Waist To(A)Knee, (B)Ankle, (C)Floor, (D)Short Train (lady only), (E)Long Train (lady only)(A)Center front Waist to knee
(B)Center front waist to ankle
(C)Center front waist to floor
(D)Back waist to beyond floor for only an extra inch or so
(E)Back waist to a larger distance beyond floor for longer train 4-5″
25) Inseam From Crotch to ankle where pants would end. No seam allowance or hem added26) Outseam Waist to ankle along side of body
Waist arc Divide total waist circumference measurement by 4 and then add ease from section chart (waist is 4″ divide by 4 equals 1″ ease for doll is 1/4″ total waist arc is 1 1/4″)Hip arc Divide hip circumference measurement by 4 and add ease using section chart
Arm type Where the porcelain or vinyl meets the rest of the body determines minimum sleeve length
Leg typeWhere the porcelain or vinyl meets the rest of the body determines minimum skirt or pants length
Body type Cloth porcelain vinyl etc determines if you need extra ease
Finger type What type of fingers your doll has- a mitt, some fingers spread or individual fingers. Especially important for sleeve openings if the fingers are spread out then you have to adjust and use the finger spread measurement and not the wrist measurement if you have a porcelain or other fragile type doll and
a straight sleeve without elastic or other style of opening at the hem.
Guidelines are simply lines of undetermined length to provide a place to measure or draw a line to. They are not precise and do not have set lengths, most however, do need to be a squared (90°angle) angle from another line.