Please right click and save the Word Document to your PC/Mac or save a copy of the Google Doc to your Google Drive for your own use.
Since most dolls are evenly made on both sides, the measurements are taken on the half or in the case of an arc the quarter. The exception is circumference measurements, which are all the way around the body. It is advisable that you mark somehow, either with scotch tape on the body and a pencil mark or however you are comfortable, the center front and back along with where your doll’s bust, waist and hip fall. Deciding this before you start measuring will make a big difference in how your patterns will turn out and how accurate they will be. For scale and 1/2 scale miniatures use metrics, as a millimeter is more accurate than rounding to the nearest fraction. When working with dolls this tiny it is imperative that your measurements be accurate.
Please note that after 9 years this tutorial has been updated to reflect several minor errors that were made during the original writing.
Measurement Chart
This is a master list of all the measurements needed for all dolls. Copy the entire list and fill in the ones you need for whatever doll you are going to be currently using. Following will be explanations of how to do these measurements for each type of doll. Permission granted by author to copy this page.
Key: A= All Dolls L= Lady dolls only C = Child dolls B = Babies M = Man
The chart on this page is a list of all the measurement amounts for places within the drafting instructions that say ‘see chart’. It is divided so that you can find the right measurement for your size doll that you may currently be working with and use the correct numbers for the step you are on. Most are for all the different types of dolls but one or two are for specifically just lady dolls or just babies and say so in the doll
column. The chart is for just the drafts of the basic blocks – bodice, sleeve, skirt, and pants for the lady, child, baby and man sections in section I. Separate charts will be in later sections for other measurements as needed.
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart.
Sleeve Length
Finger Span
Upper Arm
Sleeve Cap Bottom Marks
Wrist
Sleeve Cap Top Marks
1) Sleeve length-Otherwise referred to as center
2) Cap height-1/3 of sleeve length marked
and squared out from the top, 1/2 of the upper arm measurement
3) Wrist or finger span-Mark
out 1/2 of the wrist or finger span (whichever is larger) to either
side of center
4) Sleeve sides-Connect cap
height to wrist level, forming the sides of the sleeve.
5) Sleeve cap bottom marks- 1/8 of upper arm measurement
marked from the outside in and up according to Miniature Draft Chart for your size doll
6) Sleeve cap top-Square out to either
side
7) Sleeve cap top marks – Using the same
1/8 of upper arm from the bottom marks, mark from the center out
and down according to the Miniature Draft Chartfor your size doll.
8 ) Sleeve cap mid marks- Measure diagonally
from the tips of the small marks and divide in half. Mark.
9) Sleeve cap curve- Form sleeve cap by using your French curve to connect the side to the bottom mark tip, then to the mid point, up to the top and down the other side.
Alternate Sleeve
Measurements Needed Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Sleeve length
Armhole circumference****
****Armhole circumference- measure your finished bodice
pattern’s armhole from shoulder tip to shoulder tip
Armhole Circumference
X2
X length
= light gathers
Armhole Circumference
X3
X length
= medium gathers
Armhole Circumference
X4
X length
= very gathered
Only does puff sleeves that are gathered at the top and then pulled in by way of elastic at the wrist
*Determine how full you want the sleeve (see chart)
*Measure from shoulder tip around elbow to wrist this will be your sleeve length
*Measure your armhole of your basic block
*Multiply the armhole circumference by desired fullness (see chart) draw first line as the sleeve length
*Label sleeve length
*Square out to one side only the distance of the armhole circumference from the top and the bottom
*Now draw the other sleeve length line
*Your result will be a rectangle that is your desired fullness wide by your dolls arm length long. From here you can add seam allowance to the top and bottom length and gather to fit.
*This sleeve draft ONLY makes a puff long or short sleeve.
This tutorial was originally created in 2000-2001 and tested on my daughter at about a year old (she’s 13 now). I have also used this tutorial to draft for a doll as small as 1/2″ tall of course using magnifying glasses and a very sharp pencil! This is a preview of the techniques used in Pattern Making for Dolls and Pattern Drafting For Miniatures which were originally sold as hard copy books, moved to CD and finally are now available only in PDF as an instant download.
Included in this tutorial series are all the items that will be needed for all the pattern drafts and even some of the items that will be needed for the stylization in following sections of the full book. Please feel free to draft patterns and critique anything you find that doesn’t work quite right for you. Please also remember the full book covers ladies clothing and babies clothing too along with stylization and construction tips and techniques. If you pass this on to anyone else please remember to give me credit and point them to my website or contact information. Feel free to contact me with any questions you have regarding my technique.
At some point in the future, I will be expanding this series of books to include Computerized Drafting and a book on Advanced Stylizations for Dolls and Miniatures. Keep an eye on the site and the blogs for announcements!
Here is a continuation of the Pattern Drafting Crash Course. A basic straight skirt and a bonus fuller skirt.
Measurements Needed
Copy the following to your paper before you start and fill in with the
correct measurements for the doll you are working with. The ones in italics
can be found on the Miniature Draft Chart
Waist Arc
Hip Depth
Front
Back
Hip Arc
Side Hip Depth
1) Skirt Length- side seam
2) Side or Back Hip Depth (whichever is deeper)- square out to either
side to the left back hip arc and to the right front hip arc
3) Back Hip Arc- at top square out back hip arc
4) Center Back- square out back hip arc at bottom and then connect from
top to bottom to form center back
5) Back Hip Depth-Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth,
mark in. If you used Back Hip Depth in step 2 use Hip Depth here.
6) Back Waist Arc- from center back line towards side seam Formula: waist
arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)
7) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level
8 ) Waist Line- curve from back hip mark to hip
9) Front Hip Arc- front hip arc. At top square out then square out front
hip arc at bottom and connect from top to bottom to form center front
10) Front Waist Arc- from center front line towards side seam Formula:
waist arc + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart )
11) Hip Line- curve from mark to hip level
12) Front Hip Depth – Should be only slightly shorter than side hip depth,
mark in
13) Waist Line- curve from front hip mark to hip
This is a bonus skirt draft for a plain skirt that goes well with a simple
bodice and can be as full as can fit around the doll’s waist.
Alternate Skirt
2X
Waist
X Length
=Light Gathers
3X
Waist
X Length
=Normal Gathers
4X
Waist
X Length
=Full Gathers
5X
Waist
X Length
=Lots of Gathers
Measurements Needed
Skirt Length
Skirt Width****
****Skirt width- the amount of gathers you want (see chart above)
Determine skirt length
Multiply waist measurement by how full you want the skirt to be (see
chart)
Why are they useful? Specification sheets are very useful to keep track of design details. This is including but not limited to what doll, fabrics, item numbers for those of us in a business or that have a huge doll collection. Most important cost of a project not to mention a copy of the actual design, front and back view with notes and swatches. You can also list where you bought a fabric or what else it might have been used for. Care instructions and anything else you think might be important for future reference.
A specification sheet would be kept with the measuring chart for the doll that the design goes with. If it goes with multiple dolls then the measurement chart for each doll and a copy of the specification sheet should be with each. Later you can also add copies of the patterns in Ziplock bags or file folders and any construction information you need too. It is best to have some form of file folder system for this information if you think you may have a large collection of doll patterns as they are very easily lost!
Permission given by author to photocopy this page.
More information included in the full books! The terms of usage for my tutorial.
Please leave all copyright information in place and do not sell this Pattern Drafting Crash Course. If you want to link to it please go ahead but also let me know so I may link back. Any and all patterns you make using this information are yours and you may sell them just not my “How To Do It”. Please if you do sell the patterns made from this or any of my books, place a small note somewhere that you used my Pattern Drafting Crash Course or my books Pattern Making for Dolls and Pattern Drafting For Miniatures and list my URL or e-mail. This is a very small thing to do for me and otherwise I give the Pattern Drafting Crash Course freely with no expectations that you will buy the books or anything from me. Please feel free to drop me a line telling me what you used the Pattern Drafting Crash Course for or if you used it to make a pattern and sold it. I like to hear about your success!
1) Side seam- pants length. Square out at top &
bottom to both sides
2) Side hip depth- measure down and square
out to both sides
3) Crotch depth- measure down from top
crotch depth and square out to both sides
4) Waist to knee- square out to both
sides
5) Center back- formula: waist arc +
dart intake (see Miniature Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature
Draft Chart)
6) Back hip arc- from center back towards side seam
7) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark
8 ) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to Miniature Draft Chart)
9) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect
10) ) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve
11) Center front- formula: waist arc + dart intake
(see
Miniature
Draft Chart) + ease (see Miniature Draft Chart)
12) front hip arc- from center front
towards side seam
13) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark
14) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to Miniature Draft Chart
15) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect
16) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve
17) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Inseam measurement Outseam (side seam) -From
Crotch level measure down Outseam measurement. The
distance between the lines at the bottom should be
no smaller than the Around Foot measurement.
18) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Outseam (side seam) -measure over around
foot measurement and mark connect mark to crotch level
line
Below is the supply list you will need to draft patterns for small or miniature children dolls. In future posts I will also try to list places to find some of the more unique items such as miniature French Curves suitable for drafting in the smaller scales.
1/8 or 1/4″ Ribbon -used to mark where the bust waist and hips land so that measurements are accurate. To help measure hard to get into places on small dolls. You can lay the ribbon on the doll and then use a pen dot to mark the desired amount and then measure the end to the dot.
A plastic coated twist tie works very well for very tiny dolls as you can bend the wire to the exact amount you need and then use a ruler to do the measuring
Eraser– pink pearl or kneaded gum
French Curve, tape dispenser, or sets of “doll size” French curves
Glue stick helps hold tiny pieces to cardstock for final blocks
Light Table or A Box with a Light Inside and Clear Glass or Plastic Over the Top or A Child’s Light Table – used for tracing patterns easier
Magnifying glass Lets you see small things easier
Manila Envelopes, Thin Cardboard, Card Stock Or Junk Mail Post Cards Or Thin Cardboard Boxes- for creating permanent blocks
Measuring Tape – a normal sized human one works well. Alternately the retractable purse size measuring tape found at Wal-Mart works very well too.
Muslin– relatively inexpensive way to do test fits and be able to sew the pieces together along with marking on the pieces any changes*Paper- light weight for first drafts of the pattern
Paper Towel, muslin, used dryer sheets- inexpensive way to test patterns*Pencil- mechanical pencil or a no. 2 normal pencil with a sharp point
Ruler – an accurate one marked in 1/16ths and also centimeters (metal is best) There are clear rulers that are marked in 1/10ths that are very useful as well
Scissors – fine tip sewing scissors some for paper and another pair for fabric
Scotch Tape– taping parts of a pattern in place while adjusting or stylizing
Small Rotary Cutter With A Sharp Blade– to ease cutting out pieces from fabric optional The 18mm size is perfect for cutting out even 1″ scale pieces accurately
Small Rotary Mat– must be used if you use a rotary cutter optional
Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie used for giving a very fine line that is more visible than pencil to a final pattern
