Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Glossary Terms

Glossary of Terms

Abdomen– area between the waist and hips around the belly button areaAbdomen arc– 1/4 of the total circumference of the fattest part

Apex– the doll’s nipple if she has one or the tip of her breast

Arc– 1/4 of complete circumference measurement

Banana dart– a dart that looks like a straight up and down bananaBasic block– your pattern that you drafted from your measurements it has no design to it

Bias grain– the diagonal of the fabric and your grain line is lined up with it for a different drape

Blend– making separate lines look like 1 continuous one

Bust– chest level on a child or man or the breasts of a lady doll

Bust arc– the distance from the flat ribs below the bust to the apex

Bust bridge– distance between apexes

Cap ease – difference between cap and armhole measurementCap– height distance from biceps to cap at center

Center back- center of the back usually where there would be a spine

Center front -center of the front of a doll where there would normally be a breast bone

Circumference– distance around somewhere

Cloth body– the body is made of cloth and is very soft and huggable.

Composition body– the body I made of a plastic substance and does not squish when you hug your doll

Cross grain– grain running from selvage to selvage

Crotch– area where a drink and wet doll wets and where panties would normally go

Dart intake– the extra added to a pattern so that when you sew the dart it doesn’t end up too smallDart leg– one of the lines that makes up a dart

Dart point– the tip of the dart

Darts– used to fit a garment close to the body primarily for lady dolls but can be used on children or men but never on a baby.

Drape– holding and pinning a piece of fabric up to a doll and pinching the material until it fits then marking where darts are and making a basic pattern from
the fabric markings in a connect-the-dots style.

Ease– the extra bit of room that allows you to dress the doll without breaking herElbow level – elbow of doll

Finger span– the distance around all the fingers at the largest point

French curve– plastic tool used to draw curves various sizes are available including ones specifically for dolls

Grade– to enlarge or shrink an current patternGrading– the act of enlarging or shrinking a pattern

Grain line– center of garment running normally from top to bottom of piece

Hip arc– 1/4 of the total hip measurementHorizontal balance lines or HBL– horizontal lines used as a basis of where the bust waist and hip lie so that measuring is more accurate and easier

Notches– used at the armhole and top of sleeve to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t end up crooked when sewn

Porcelain body– made of porcelain doesn’t squish and is very hard similar to a composition body only very fragile

Princess line– the style of a pattern where the bodice or skirt has been split into 2 pieces for each quarter of the body

Raglan– a style where the sleeve doesn’t come from the shoulder tip but from the neck shoulder junction as in a sweatshirtRight angle or RT angle– a 90-degree angle commonly found at necklines centers side seams and armhole bottoms

Rulers– measuring tool

Seam– sewn together pieces of fabric to form 1 pieceSeam allowance or S/A– allowance of extra fabric so that your sewing machine has a little extra to grab on to when it tries to feed your fabric through.

Sleeve cap -the curved top section of the sleeve from the front to the back

Sleeve ease– the added room needed to allow the arm to move if necessary

Straight grain– the vertical grain of the fabric

Style lines– various lines made on patterns to create a new look or design

Torso– the body part of a doll with out the head, arms, or legs.Truing the pattern– checking to be sure that all areas match up side seams are the same length, shoulder seams are the same etc.

Waist arc– 1/4 of the total waist circumference measurement

Wrist level– the bottom hemline area of a sleeve, level with the wrist of the arm

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