Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Specification Sheets

Why are they useful? Specification sheets are very useful to keep track of design details. This is including but not limited to what doll, fabrics, item numbers for those of us in a business or that have a huge doll collection. Most important cost of a project not to mention a copy of the actual design, front and back view with notes and swatches. You can also list where you bought a fabric or what else it might have been used for. Care instructions and anything else you think might be important for future reference.

A specification sheet would be kept with the measuring chart for the doll that the design goes with. If it goes with multiple dolls then the measurement chart for each doll and a copy of the specification sheet should be with each. Later you can also add copies of the patterns in Ziplock bags or file folders and any construction information you need too. It is best to have some form of file folder system for this information if you think you may have a large collection of doll patterns as they are very easily lost!

Permission given by author to photocopy this page.

Specification sheet
Doll: Size of Doll:
Name of Garment: Style: Number:
Season : Designer:
Yard Goods:
Face Fabric: Cost: Sketch & Swatches
Width: Length:
Color: Weight:
Interfacing Cost:
Width: Length:
Color: Weight:
Lining: Cost:
Width: Length:
Color: Weight:
Trims: Cost:
Width: Length:
Color: Weight:
Total $:
Notions:
Fastners:
Thread: Spools: Colors: Size (Yds):
Total $:
GRAND TOTAL $:

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Terms of Use

More information included in the full books!  The terms of usage for my tutorial.

Please leave all copyright information in place and do not sell this Pattern Drafting Crash Course. If you want to link to it please go ahead but also let me know so I may link back. Any and all patterns you make using this information are yours and you may sell them just not my “How To Do It”. Please if you do sell the patterns made from this or any of my books, place a small note somewhere that you used my Pattern Drafting Crash Course or my books Pattern Making for Dolls and Pattern Drafting For Miniatures and list my URL or e-mail. This is a very small thing to do for me and otherwise I give the Pattern Drafting Crash Course freely with no expectations that you will buy the books or anything from me. Please feel free to drop me a line telling me what you used the Pattern Drafting Crash Course for or if you used it to make a pattern and sold it. I like to hear about your success!

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Pants Child

Waist To Ankle (Inseam) Waist Arc
Crotch Depth Hip Depth
Outseam
1) Side seam- pants length. Square out at top &
bottom to both sides
2) Side hip depth- measure down and square
out to both sides
3) Crotch depth- measure down from top
crotch depth and square out to both sides
4) Waist to knee- square out to both
sides
5) Center back- formula: waist arc +
dart intake (see Miniature Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature
Draft Chart)
6) Back hip arc- from center back towards side seam 7) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark
8 ) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to
Miniature Draft Chart)
9) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect
10) ) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve
11) Center front- formula: waist arc + dart intake
(see
Miniature
Draft Chart) + ease (see
Miniature Draft Chart)
12) front hip arc- from center front
towards side seam
13) Back hip depth- from hip line measure
up and mark
14) Crotch bisect- at crotch level bisect
(45° angle) and mark out according to Miniature Draft Chart
15) Crotch curve- using your French curve
draw a curve from the mid-point to the crotch line
touching the tip of the bisect
16) Hip- Draw in hip line with French
curve
17) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Inseam measurement Outseam (side seam) -From
Crotch level measure down Outseam measurement. The
distance between the lines at the bottom should be
no smaller than the Around Foot measurement.
18) Inseam (crotch side)- square down
to bottom Outseam (side seam) -measure over around
foot measurement and mark connect mark to crotch level
line

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Supplies

Below is the supply list you will need to draft patterns for small or miniature children dolls. In future posts I will also try to list places to find some of the more unique items such as miniature French Curves suitable for drafting in the smaller scales.
  • 1/8 or 1/4″ Ribbon -used to mark where the bust waist and hips land so that measurements are accurate. To help measure hard to get into places on small dolls. You can lay the ribbon on the doll and then use a pen dot to mark the desired amount and then measure the end to the dot.
  • A plastic coated twist tie works very well for very tiny dolls as you can bend the wire to the exact amount you need and then use a ruler to do the measuring
  • Eraser– pink pearl or kneaded gum
  • French Curve, tape dispenser, or sets of “doll size” French curves
  • Glue stick helps hold tiny pieces to cardstock for final blocks
  • Light Table or A Box with a Light Inside and Clear Glass or Plastic Over the Top or A Child’s Light Table – used for tracing patterns easier
  • Magnifying glass Lets you see small things easier
  • Manila Envelopes, Thin Cardboard, Card Stock Or Junk Mail Post Cards Or Thin Cardboard Boxes- for creating permanent blocks
  • Measuring Tape – a normal sized human one works well. Alternately the retractable purse size measuring tape found at Wal-Mart works very well too.
  • Muslin– relatively inexpensive way to do test fits and be able to sew the pieces together along with marking on the pieces any changes*Paper- light weight for first drafts of the pattern
  • Paper Towel, muslin, used dryer sheets- inexpensive way to test patterns*Pencil- mechanical pencil or a no. 2 normal pencil with a sharp point
  • Ruler – an accurate one marked in 1/16ths and also centimeters (metal is best) There are clear rulers that are marked in 1/10ths that are very useful as well
  • Scissors – fine tip sewing scissors some for paper and another pair for fabric
  • Scotch Tape– taping parts of a pattern in place while adjusting or stylizing
  • Small Rotary Cutter With A Sharp Blade– to ease cutting out pieces from fabric optional The 18mm size is perfect for cutting out even 1″ scale pieces accurately
  • Small Rotary Mat– must be used if you use a rotary cutter optional
  • Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie used for giving a very fine line that is more visible than pencil to a final pattern
  • Xacto Knife– to aid cutting out permanent blocks

Pattern Drafting Crash Course – Torso Draft

Torso Skirt
Check to be sure your skirt and bodice waists are the same
and adjust slightly if necessary
Trace your bodice front except for the waist. Only mark
where it is
Line up the center front/back of the bodice and skirt and
the side seams.
Trace the skirt. Blend the waist.
Repeat for back with side seam allowance
Torso Pants
Check to be sure your pant and bodice waists are the same
and adjust slightly if necessary
Trace your bodice front except for the waist.
Only mark where it is.
Line up the center front/back of the bodice
and pant and the side seams.
Trace the pant. Blend the waistline.
Repeat for back